Tag: Asia

Goa Heritage

The history of Fontainhas, Goa’s Latin Quarter

Today Fontainhas is renowned as the Latin Quarter of Goa. But it had its own set of problems when it was being developed in the beginning. 

As more and more Portuguese families came to the settlement, the ward of Fontainhas grew rapidly and haphazardly, without any clear town planning in place. A set of houses, built wall to wall without proper sanitary and hygiene, raised grave health concerns. As a result, the then Governor of Goa, Jose Ferreira Pestana was forced to write to the President and Councillors of the Municipal Council to take action. In his letter he writes:

“The Governor informs the municipal authorities that there is urgent need to take all care and make all possible efforts to improve the Bairro das Fontaihas, where a large number of people live crowded in small houses, with little light, poor ventilation and little cleanliness and lot of humidity and heat. This may cause health problems to the inhabitants and, consequently, grave damage to the city. Therefore the municipality is asked to take action to see that the people of the ward as well as others in the city observe the ‘posturas’ that the Municipality has published. Also to remain watchful and have good management of its Taluka regimen”

Further the Governor General instructed the Municipality that the following measures needed to be undertaken:

  • Open windows on the walls for those houses that have none
  • Increase in size others that are small
  • Increase the height of the houses
  • Expose Enclosures made of ‘ollas’ (palm leaves
  • Clear the lanes and by-lanes of shacks, which they are trying to get converted into legal acquisitions using roof tiles and buildings walls of stones
  • Tenants should be asked to maintain the cleanliness  of the properties and drains of their area in order to allow free flow of water into the river

History of Fontainhas, Panjim, Goa

The Governor General also feared that the dirt and unhygienic conditions could cause sickness and epidemic which would spread much faster in a warm climate like that in Goa. 

The neighbourhood of Fontainhas was, as its name suggests, highly reliant on the “little fountain” of the area. The Governor General therefore starkly emphasized the need to improve the hygienic conditions around the fountain, which was the only source of potable drinking water in those days.

Being reminded of the origins of Fontainhas also serves to remind us of the importance of keeping our surroudings clean. My cleaning staff are instructed to not only clean the inside of The Mitaroy Heritage Homestay but also to sweep the front and back lanes that run beside our Heritage Homestay. If all of us do our bit, Fontainhas will be remain clean and hygienic for both its residents and its visitors. 

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View from my Balcao – Liberty Port

View from my Balcao …my Dad blogs from Goa

Visitors, and they will descend in hordes come October, to this island in the sun, make the rulers of this tiny state genuinely believe that commerce & vice go hand-in-hand. Maybe true of the rampant mining over the past decade and more. Not entirely true of tourism.

Goa is certainly not a twilight zone of drugs, booze & sleaze, as is currently being made out – Bombay & Delhi score higher, for sure. Its just a fun-place where richie-rich kids from Bombay & Delhi (and lesser cities) come to have a spot of merriment. Beer, nay any booze, is ridiculously cheaper than other cities, so why not indulge in an extra tipple when on holiday. And why traveel all the way to Pattaya when Goa is round the corner.

The social-service wing of the ruling government has grabbed headlines for their enthuisiastic attempts to curb night-life. This middle-class anxiety about hedonism could change the perception of Goa forever, making it a dull and boring beach-state as against the carefully nurtured halo of being a free-and-easy one. Their puritanism appears naive at best. Bombay & Delhi too have rocking night-life, so why single out Goa ?

Goa serves a singular purpose of allowing young (and old too !) folk, engaged in stressful lives of today’s money-changing world, to chill-out and get a taste of Goa’s famed laid-back (sosegaad) lifestyle.

Goa’s night-time avatar is unknown to many – hot-spots at Baga/Anjuna/Calangute or any of the casinos moored in the inland-waters, that start rocking by 9pm and shut shop around 6am, and why not. Partying is the sole purpose of holiday-makers to Goa. Goa is not just the gateway to India but also a rocking paradise for the foreign, and increasing now, the Indian tourist.

Lest their prudism turn Goa into the least sexy beach-town in Asia and allow a more strident Pattaya to turn the tables & turnstiles, it must beg the question as to what is good, bad or ugly.

Across the icy gulf of time from the swinging 60s to today, Goa has been India’s best-known secrets among all foreigners.

The ruling Government’s collective anxiety about keeping a clean image of Goa’s beaches must perforce go hand-in-hand with the image of a state that has had 11 CMs in the past 12 years, excluding the previous Congressman, and one that allows the mining-casino lobby as much freedom as the beach-bums of yore.

Putting a check on both is certainly advisable, given the burgeoning mining & casinos scams, & increasing number of rape cases, but lets not overload it to cause it to tipple the other way and take away the charm of Goa’s liberty to all its visitors. The present CM, who has a blue-blooded engineering degree to his name, will have to find the correct balance, a middle-path as the wise Buddha said of life.

Mitaroy Hotel in Goa

Valentine Goa Package

What better place to celebrate Valentine’s Day than in a cozy Heritage Homestay in Goa’s Latin Quarter of Fontainhas ? 

Each Heritage Suite has a separate living room, bedroom, bathroom and balcony or sit out. It also has nice colonial-style furniture & a certain olde world romantic charm.

  • Complimentary Champagne Breakfast 
  • Complimentary Bottle of Goan Wine 
  • Complimentary Tickets to a Romantic Movie
  • Complimentary Valentine’s Day Surprise on Arrival
  • Complimentary Late Check Out till 5 pm, subject to availability
  • Complimentary selection of daily Goan Newspapers
  • Complimentary bottled Mineral Water throughout your stay
  • Complimentary Hand made Bath Amenities

4 days 3 nights Valentine Goa Package in a Romantic Suite: Rs. 19,000

Please make your reservations well in advance since we are a small Homestay and are often booked out quite early.

India: +91 94480 87708
Europe: +43 680 2303682

mihirnayak@outlook.com

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Mitaroy Hotel in Goa

Musings of a Journalist

A 4 Suite Hotel only for Couples, the Mitaroy Goa Hotel is located in the UNESCO Heritage Zone of Fontainhas. Fontainhas is quietly tucked away from all the hustle and bustle of Panjim, yet is only a few minutes walk to the Panjim Jetty. Known as Asia’s only Latin Quarter, Fontainhas is quaint, quiet and pollution-free – an idyllic bastion of the old Portuguese times.

The property itself is an over 200-year-old Portuguese Bungalow, carefully restored by one of India’s most respected architects who has created a happy blend of the old and the new – an inviting water-body at the entrance, terra-cotta floor-tiles, typical white walls, exposed laterite stone walls, wooden staircase, large French windows, old doors, a relaxing red-oxide balcao to while away the time of the day.

The Suites are spacious near 1000 sq feet with a lounge, bedroom, bath and balcony or garden area. Antique furniture, airconditioning, modern toilets, hand made toiletries, crisp bed-linen and caring service blend seamlessly to offer the discerning guest a memorable stay.

Couples staying at the Mitaroy Goa Hotel experience life in the slow lane – cats stretched out lazily on window-sills, fisher-women doing her rounds, replete in her marathi-style sari, bakers with their hot Goan “pav” breads tooting along on their cycle. Fontainhas is seemingly an idyllic “vaddo” (village) but just a stone’s throw from city-centre. A walk through the narrow lanes and quaint bye-lanes of Fontainhas makes for quite an unforgettable romantic experience.

In congruence with the leisurely lifestyle of the Goans, breakfast is served at a time of your choice (none of the hustle and bustle of a typical hotel buffet). Bacon, salami, boiled-eggs, fresh fruit & fruit-juice, Goan pav bread, aloo bhaji, butter, natural fruit jam, marmalade, cheese and freshly brewed coffe or tea.

Lunch and dinner are not served at the Mitaroy Goa Hotel. Instead, guests are encouraged to wander and visit the typical local Goan restaurants and sample the local fare – typical Goan cuisine at Linda’s, fusion cuisine at Venite (Latin for “Oh Come” ) or a typical Portuguese food at the Horseshoe restaurant – that is in abundance in and around Fontainhas. For entertainment, the local hotspot “Down The Road” or the casinos with their jettys just a 5 minute walk away beckon the daring. A boat cruise at sundown on the Mandovi River, a romantic movie at the Inox multiplex cinema or window shopping at the swank, new Caculo Mall nearby are pleasant ways to while away your time.

Jack, your natty caretaker & guide will be happy to assist with any longer journeys you may wish to make to the beach, Old Goa, Mangueshi Temple or the famous bird sanctuary in Diwar. He might even take you for a walkabout in the Fontainhas area, known for its heritage walk circuit.

Innumerable options to keep you busy on the 4 Day 3 Night Romantic Package with late check out option if you so wish comes with a price tag of Euros 100 per night.

For more information and pictures, check out their website at http://www.mitaroygoahotel.com or mail them at mitaroygroup@gmail.com (call 0-9448087708). For those living in Europe, Mihir Nayak, the young Austria-based owner is available at mihhirnayak@gmail.com (call 0043-6802303682).

Goa Restaurants and Bars

Viva Panjim Restaurant Goa

Just a 5 minute stroll away from my Mitaroy Goa Hotel in the neighbourhood of Fontainhas is a small restaurant that serves the best prawn curry rice I have ever eaten.

Panjim, the capital of Goa, is known for its amazing restaurants. I know people who stay in North Goa but still come to Panjim every day to try out the restaurants here.

Viva Panjim, located in a Heritage Home in the UNESCO Heritage Zone of Fontainhas in Panjim, is a real treat for sea food lovers. Popularized by the Lonely Planet Guide and the Rough Guide, you can see foreign tourists making a beeline towards the restaurant which is tucked away in a quiet, side street.

Whenever we eat at Viva Panjim, we prefer to sit outside on the portico rather than inside this heritage house. A Goan feni with lime is a great way to start off the meal, with a side order of fried mussels. I then move on to my favourite prawn curry rice accompanied by another round of Goan feni with lime.

The consistency of the prawn curry is just right – not too thick and not too watery. The ingredients in the prawn curry rice are secret but the result is a unique, orangish hue. The portion is really large with a good serving of rice and atleast 6 huge prawns.

The Owner of Viva Panjim and a family friend of ours, Linda sits at her desk every day and keeps a sharp eye on the waiters to see if they are doing their job. Linda’s stern face breaks into a smile when a new guest walks in. She knows most customers who are either old friends or loyal guests and she greets them by name. 

Most first time guests swear by Viva Panjim and quite often, you see familiar faces of guests who religiously visit Viva Panjim for at least one meal every day.

Once we polish off the last of the rice and prawn curry and wash it down with a last Goan feni with lime, it is time to slowly make our way back to our private Suite at my Mitaroy Goa Hotel and partake of a very welcome afternoon Siesta!

Stay Romantic!

Mihir